Thursday, December 6, 2012

STICKERS!


The first batch of official Rock Cricket stickers have gotten here!  We had 250 printed up and want to get them out to people, out to places, etc.  If you know any of us personally you can just ask us for some and hope that they're on us.  Otherwise, drop a line to ryan@rockcricket.com with your name and address and I'll ship a couple out to you. For FREE!

-Ryan

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Dah Gone Uh - A Yankee's Perspective

I've never watched movies around a campfire, let alone while schwilling margaritas in a coffee mug. That is, until I went to Alabama.  Our adventure would have been a very different story if we were to have not met Terry.

The dude had a banjo tattooed on his knee, as well as a moon on one nip and a sun on the other - things he showed us the first night we hung out.  He cooked some damn good food too.  Never did I have boiled peanuts, fried green tomatoes, or "gormet" hotdogs (hotdogs with bbq sauce cooked on a fire, he said the sauce was homemade and that he just reused the Piggly Wiggly sauce bottle..debatable) on a climbing trip.  Uncle Terry was a good guy to have an in with, although getting his little revolver pointed at you right when you woke up could be a little unnerving at best - he meant no harm.

We picked up a bunch of sweet new vocabulary too.  Add these to the dictionary, I mean "Dinictionary":

Dah Gone Uh - an extremely useful filler expression, use it like "um".
Hugger - we know them as coozies up here.
Annarchiologist - what you call an Anarchist when you can't remember/pronounce the word.

We were in true dirtbag form.  Our campsite had so much spilt food and swisch that it was infested with a swarm of bees from day one.  They almost were like pets.  Only once was anyone stung (Alex), despite our swatting, yelling, etc.  We had another "nature experience" with a coon that Terry claimed to weigh 70 pounds.  Every night we left our food out.  And every night that damn thieving coon bastard ran off with some sort of grain product..bread, tortillas, oatmeal.  The following mornings were met with talk of learning our lesson, putting the food in the car - but we never did, against better judgement.  When I told Terry my thoughts on training our friends the bees to kill the perpetrator he responded with..

"Last time a Yankee tried to tame a southern bee, he ended up dead..took him to the coon's lair."

Knowing that the swarm was on the side of the enemy, we forgot about the plan.  There were other bees up on Chandler Mountain, or should I say B's.  We had reverted to primal grunting and chest pounding when in the presence of a female, any female.  I apologize to any that actually caught on to our antics.  There was some pretty low brow humor thrown down around the campfire, some that we should all forget.  Some we definitely should remember.

Uncle Terry
Swisch was almost as much of a part of the trip as was the climbing.  It's a wonder how we managed to get up around six almost every day to make use of the crisp morning temps.  One memorable incident involved a post session draining of a bottle in less than half an hour.  I've never had a stranger request concerning whiskey than Dawson asking me to pour some in a plastic water bottle half full of wine..at eight in the morning.  Clearly things went downhill from there.  I thought I'd be a great slackliner with the inebriation and all, "lost" my boots (next to the slackline), and proceeded to think I could wear PBR boxes as shoes into the liquor store.  I don't know what makes less sense - the preceding actions or Dawson letting Terry drive his car to said establishment.

I can't wait to get back down South.  Horse Pens will always have a special place in my heart.  Rocktown and LRC were also both pretty sweet too.  Even though I'm just a dumb Yankee, I can appreciate Dixie's charm.

-Ryan

Road Trips

Our young friend Kyle has written a little something up about our trip down south, a first for him.  I present it to you unedited and unabridged.  Let him know what you think..

-Ryan

"Road Trips"
by Kyle Owens

There comes a time when every climber entertains the idea of leaving the home crag and venturing out in search of new rock. This doesn’t mean hitting up bird’s eye view on Bing and scouring every forest within an hour radius for any potential of a new and possibly non-scoured chossy boulder or hitting up mountain project soaking up beta on new developments and asking for a tour. In the language of “dirt-bag” a climbing trip means packing your sedan to the brim with gear, wooks, and then strapping pads to the roof; knowing that you’re now that guy that no one wants to drive behind because that pad looks like it’s going to fly off your roof into traffic. Anyways, the first step to assembling a climbing trip is to pick the kind of rock and the style of climbing you’re into; once this is done, you will have a destination or perhaps even a tick list of regional crags to hit up on the way. Once, you’ve got a place in mind, it’s time to choose the crew. This crew should be your buddies that you’re always crushing both rock and schwish with. Trust me on this one the crew is crucial, I’ve heard of backpacking trips when the crew isn’t that great and more often than not, a misadventure will be the end result of a division in the crew. Packing isn’t necessarily a crucial aspect of climbing trips. To take a trip in true dirt-bag manner means to only pack shit you’ll use. The following necessities are listed in order of necessity for a great climbing trip: shoes, pads, schwish, chalk, a tent (for each guy don’t try to cram into one, nobody will think you’re straight), sleeping bags, food, two pairs of boxers, and one pair of clothes. The last part of a climbing trip that I’m going to cover is the ride. Make sure that the car has loose change for tolls, I know somebody that throws a handful of change on the floor whenever they get a new car so they don’t get screwed at a toll booth; pretty smart. Never stop in North Jersey to eat either, especially if there’s over three hours left until the destination. Keep your eyes open for ‘squatch educate yourself on their habits and calls so that you can properly identify one if you see it, plus those fuckers are known to get hit by cars. Often you’ll find yourself looking into the woods off the highway as scouring can any visible rock can be a habit. Just remember that the roc you see in those woods off of “Route Whatever” is rock that is hours and hours away from home and there’s better rock ahead of you, so just enjoy its presence though leave that developing to the locals. The best way to take a trip is by passing out somewhere around Jersey, only wake up for gas stops, and let the others drive. If you’re not going to sleep, stay up and bullshit with whoever’s driving and definitely make sure that the driver is not lost so that when you realize you’re lost the car isn’t halfway home like in Dumb and Dumber. Enjoy the trip, enjoy the new rock, mingle with the locals, maybe meet some bees, whatever, a climbing trip is as good as you make it.

Saturday, December 1, 2012

Photopost: Southeastern B'Corral

HP40, ALHP40, ALHP40, ALHP40, ALHP40, ALHP40, AL
HP40, ALHP40, ALHP40, ALHP40, ALHP40, ALHP40, AL
HP40, ALHP40, ALHP40, ALRocktown, GARocktown, GARocktown, GA
Little Rock City, TNLittle Rock City, TN


The Rock Cricket crew just returned from a foray into the great Southeastern bouldering trifecta - Horse Pens 40, Alabama / Rocktown, GA / Little Rock City, TN. I'm sure there will be many posts documenting our trip, but to kick it off I'll drop some images to set the scene. This will also be the first of many "Photoposts" to come. Enjoy.

***Note: All photos came from either Andy or Kyle's cameras, they took the majority of the shots, but some were undoubtedly taken by others in the group. We will never know for sure due to swisch consumption and/or B deprivation.  In future posts we'll add photo creds.

Also, I want to say that our good friend Alex was with us but because he was behind the camera a good portion of the trip due to injury (not climbing..well, sort of) there are no pictures of him. Sorry bud.

Eventually we hope to improve the quality of pictures in upcoming installments. The template is also a work in progress.  The thumbnails will redirect you to the individual photos at Flickr (from there you can see the description-who, what, how hard, etc.), I don't know if that can be changed.  Just click back to get to the site.  And if you're wondering "NS" means no send, but the shot was nice so we kept it.  Bare with us.

-Ryan

Saturday, November 10, 2012

Schwag Report

So after months of working out the simple task of producing stickers, they will finally become a reality. Many weeks ago I drew up a crude but suitable sketch as a logo.  For many weeks after that I told myself I would improve upon it.  Eventually, I said "good enough" and asked for Andy and Sam to scan it..after a little while longer it is finally here.


Once we had the image on the computer it took mere minutes to send to a company for printing.  In a few weeks (fingers crossed), we will have 250 stickers.  These adhesive slivers of greatness are the first in a series of ideas we have for displaying our loyalty to the Rock Cricket tribe.  If you see us around, we'll probably have some on hand.  Although they were relatively cheap, they weren't free, so any sort of donation (spare change, beer, food, etc.) would be greatly appreciated, but not mandatory (we're broke too).  Also, if somehow you've found your way to this hinterland of the internet and would like some by mail, shoot me a line at ryan@rockcricket.com.  We can figure out some sort of web donation device later.

We have some ideas in the mix for other types of RC schwag that will hopefully come to fruition quicker than the stickers did.  Also, we plan on organizing some events in the near future..stay tuned.

-Ryan

Thursday, November 8, 2012

Notes From The Choss Pile

To Be The First

It seems to me, that a time comes for every climber to want to leave their mark - a sort of legacy, it's human nature.  This can manifest in a variety of forms - authoring a guidebook, winning competitions, writing a blog, etc.  No matter how significant or menial that contribution may be, it is one more tick mark in the grand scheme of things.

As for me, like many others, I have been drawn to first ascents.  The first ascentionist is propelled by a plethora of motivations.  Sometimes it's a lack of climbs in an area, sometimes the desire for adventure and exploration.  And sometimes, we just want to be the first person up a piece of rock and name it whatever the fuck we want..our mark.  For most, I think, its a combination.

The spirit of adventure runs high in places where you would least expect it.  New England has had a rich history of climbing reaching back for nearly a century.  But even here, with a little perseverance, one can feel like they're breaking through new territory.  Sometimes this feeling is legitimate, no one has ever touched that rock.  And other times you're just scraping off the moss from a decades old choss pile (or forgotten gem) that some local hardman (or nomadic passerby) has sent before you were even born.  But what's the difference?

Mere Child's Play V3
If you have went through the process - scoured the land, scrubbed the moss and dirt, added the chalk, broke off decaying holds - and finally scurried up your new found prize..what matters if you were first?  You had that adventure of finding the line.  You put in the time.  You made it to the top.  First ascent or long-time-coming repeat.  What's the difference?

When it all boils down, you might have been the first, or you may have just revived a long lost climb.  Either way you're doing the climbing community a favor, and that matters.  One more piece of rock for us to play on.  In a place like New England you may never know if you were the first - People have been scouring the hills forever and forgetting about what's been done, especially in the nether regions we sometimes play.  Chalk washes off, even in the most unlikely places.  Moss regrows.  And with the freeze/thaw cycles of our northerly climate, holds break off.  It's OK to want and to try to figure out the history of a climb.  But it's not the most important part.

But seriously..Does anyone know if this crack has been sent before?  Or did I get the FA?

-Ryan


Thursday, November 1, 2012

Rock Cricket's Climbing Dictionary

I have been told by a number of readers that it is difficult to understand what we are talking about unless you are a climber.  Most notable was an email that I received from a friend about the matter..

"By the way, putting a glossary of terms on the Rock Cricket website would be helpful, since I have no idea what you are talking about (sending?). But it looks really dangerous!"

Although the majority of our audience is climbers (and probably only five of us), I thought that such a list of terms might be in order.  I decided to title it "Rock Cricket's Climbing Dictionary" due to the fact that our particular regional dirtbag dialect may vary in forms from others (i.e. we make shit up).  Though, many of the words are common among the climbing community.  You may have to refer to other words in the list for definitions of others.  I'm not Merriam or Webster, nor did I attend Oxford, so don't hold me to the same standards.  Here we go..

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Beta - Information about a climb.  This can range from knowing which holds to grab, to learning a particular sequence of moves that are crucial to sending a problem.  Beta on any problem can differ from one person to another, though many problems have specific beta that works where other beta won't.  (Ex. Alex was trying some of his crazy beta on this problem we found.)

Choss - Crumbing, flaky, loose, (basically shitty) rock.  Also used as a description for anything that's sub par or not to your liking, synonymous with "shitty".  (Ex. Hey Kyle, those sandwiches your Mom made us were some real piles of choss) (Just kidding Kyle's Mom)

Crash Pad - A mat used to protect a climber from hitting the ground, rocks, roots, etc.

Crimp - A small edge used as a handhold to move up the rock.

Dab - For any part of or body (or clothing) to touch anything other than the rock you are trying to climb.  (Ex. I was on the most classic V1 at the Res.  It was called Ginsu, I think Ryan put it up..anyway, I couldn't stop stump dabbing!)

Dirtbag - An endearing (or not) term for a climbing bum.  Someone who lives on the cheap in order to pursue the climbing lifestyle.  A climbing wook.  (Ex. I was down in the Red River Gorge and I saw this dirtbag pawing black beans out of a can he found in the garbage.)

Downgrade - To think a problem is easier than what it is graded and then hold it to your own opinion. 

Dropping Trow - To drop your pants and underwear to your ankles and go to the bathroom.  The only respectable way to urinate (male or female) while climbing outside (some may also consider the method while at a gym).  (Ex. I went to go take a leak near the Erkanan Boulder and forgot to drop trow.  People started yelling at me and throwing sticks.)

First Ascent - To be the first to climb a particular problem or route up some rock.  AKA "FA"

First Cigarette Ascent - To be the first to climb a particular problem or route up some rock whilst smoking a grit.  AKA "FCA"

Flash - To send a problem first try, with beta.

Gaston - A sideways facing hold you pull away from your body.

Highball - A Boulder problem that is tall enough to scare you.

Jug - A large, incut hold, that you can hold as if holding a handle.  Some people tend to overplay the word, as in the case when I read a problem description in the Gunks starting on "tiny jugs", which were no more than small incut crimps.  (Ex. I was able to drop trow, do my business, and pull my pants back up all hanging from the finishing jug on Trainspotting.)

Mantle - To press off the top of a boulder, palms down, in order to get over the lip.

Onsight - To send a problem first try, without beta.

Problem - A certain route you follow up a boulder.  The path of least resistance up given holds on a certain part of the rock.  If not contrived, this route is independent from other lines.

Project - A problem in which you dedicate time to, usually having to visit it many times, putting in many days of work.

Sandbag - To give a grade to a problem lower than the consensus, usually a habitual infliction, usually done knowingly.  (Ex. That dude's a serial sandbagger.  I saw him come up to these girls and say Guardrail was easy V3..dab!)

Scour - To search for new rock.  Usually involving bushwhacking through all sorts of horrid shit.  (Ex.  Don't even bother, these hills have all been scoured!)

Send - To ascend a boulder problem without dabbing or falling off.

Swisch - Any form of alcohol.  Can also be used as a synonym of "drunk".  (Ex. My tips are shredded, let's just go into town and get swisched.)

Tick Marks - A mark you make to point out holds that may be hard to see for various reasons.  They are fine to use if you don't get out of control and mark excessively.  It is also good form to scrub them off afterwards.  (Ex. Did you see those ticks Dawson left on Stumpy?  Looks like he made love to the thing.)

V Grades - The system in which we describe difficulty to a problem.  The system originated with bouldering legend John "Vermin" Sherman.  It is open ended and starts at V0 (currently stretching to V16).  There are many factors that contribute to a climbs grade (length, steepness, holds, etc.), but in the end grades are all subjective and usually follow a certain consensus.

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Well that's it, hope it helps.  If you have any other words to add feel free to drop them in the comments box.

Scour on my dabbing, swish bucket, downgrading, dirtbag brethren.

-Ryan

Friday, October 19, 2012

Tooting The Proverbial Horn

Our one and only semi-regular installment "Weekly Sends" is being discontinued after just three posts.  I don't know if it's the weather, that I'm injured and not climbing, or the fact that no one really cares..but it's over.  We had a good run.

Rock Cricket was created to foster a climbing community in our little nook of the climbing world.  Part of that is letting people know what's been going on in the area, but I've tired of writing up our meager achievements.  THAT IS WHY ALL PONTIFICATING ABOUT UBBER HARD V3 SENDFESTS MAY NOW BE DIRECTED TO THE FACEBOOK PAGE!  I encourage, and know that I myself will keep up with posting the scour reports, notable sends, and downgrade stump dab madness..but let's do it on the good old social network.  I mean, what better a place to brag about stuff, take shirtless pictures of yourself in the mirror, and creep on climbing babes (are there any climbing babes around here?).

You may wonder, "what is going to be on the website?".  Just wait and see, we's gots some plans (sorry, my grammar not so good, grew up in Canaan).

-Ryan

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Weekly Sends - III

Well it's that time we've all been waiting for..the third installment of WEEKLY SENDS!  The weather's been back and forth - leading us on with a glorious day here and there, interspersed with cold, wet, miserable hell.  Luckily we've been able to fill in those gaps with some sendage..

Per usual, Andy (asshole), has been hiking the projects of others and wreaking havoc on his own.  He started off with a flash of Fatass V3 and then ran up the hill to finish his longstanding bout with Remedy V8.  We then gathered around Wasabi V5 where a group effort on beta deconstruction allowed Lund the send.  On top of all this he managed to pull off Mad Squirrel V7 a couple days later.

Alex must have been schwilling off Andy's half finished Busch cans because he too assembled an impressive ticklist - grabbing a send of Fatass and Wasabi as well.  Topping off his week was a lap up Spak Attack V4 - let's just hope his shoes don't start smelling like ass (a tell tale sign of crushing).

The psyche on Wasabi stayed strong as Dawson was also able to pull off a send.  He's still waiting to hear back from Jesus about those Lapis brushes..

Strange helicopter flybys over Wasabi
Ryan (I figure I'll stick in the third person), is still laid up with a finger injury and is doing his best to not act like an angsty teenage bitch.  Despite his condition, he put in a solid scour effort at a "new" area north of the Res.  During this session he cleaned and sent two problems - Seventeen Regrets and Four Legged Lawn Mower.  Both of these are lowball right to left traverses on good rock, with the majority of the holds being open handed (kind on his digits).  He's not offering up grades until more people get on them.  After a couple sessions at the Res he has realized he needs to lay off the rock and spend his efforts scouring and cleaning until his fingers feel better.

In other areas of the state Shane and Kyle have been busy searching out new rock.  Kyle has been telling us about a couple of cool boulders down south - Alex went out with him and confirmed their radness.  Shane was with Ryan while putting up his two new problems and was able to flash Seventeen Regrets - nice!

SCOUR REPORT:
***I thought I'd add a little section of Weekly Sends dedicated to recent development.  Not necessarily individual routes (as mentioned above), but new areas being explored, uncovered, or revived in our region.***

Let's start off with this "new" area I mentioned before.  Apparently Scott and Jake have been climbing this spot for a while now, but not too too many problems have gone up, let alone visited since.  The area consists of at least two large sectors, the one I've been heading out to, we'll call "The Tracks", has an immense amount of rock: including a flat open boulder field, countless highball cliff bands, and giant blocks.  In the two times I've visited this sector I have seen evidence of only four problems, each on a separate piece of rock (this is definitely not to say that these are the only things sent).  There is a ton to explore in this sector alone, that may continue farther down the ridge than I have gone.  AND, we haven't even hiked the back side yet.  The other sector is also riddled with steep blocks and short cliff bands, with more evidence of sent problems, but not many.  I am willing to say that the area as a whole (both sectors), as well as adjacent rock I'm sure we'll find, has almost, if not, as much stone as the Res.

Andy and I were also lucky enough to get a tour with Cal of another new area in the Berkshires.  This spot has rock of incredible quality with very fine vertical grains and diamond cut edges, reminiscent of some areas in Northwestern CT.  The quality vastly outshines the quantity in this area, though there is the possibility for a couple dozen quality lines, including some burly test pieces.  However, nothing as of yet has been cleaned or sent.

DON'T FUCKING BOTHER IT'S ALL BEEN SCOURED!

-Ryan

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

A Climbers Guide To Climbing...Kind Of

Well ladies and gents its tuesday night. Typically a tuesday night for the Rock Cricket crew means very  casual schwilling of cheap beer or whiskey, and throwing ourselves at a very steep wall of plastic...but mainly talking alot of shit and laughing as much as possible. This isn't a typical tuesday though. Ryan injured his figures last week at TNB therefore he isn't climbing. Andy has holes in all of his fingers and is working to re-grow  them with some liquor. Dawson is dining and whining, and Alex and Kyle are slaving away for the man.

Speaking of laughing, that brings us to the point of this post. CLIMBING!
Climbing is a funny game of push and pull. you have strength vs. injury. Frustration vs. success. Pain vs. pleasure. Terror vs. focus. Technique vs. burl. having a great time vs. being a pissed off asshole. And being hung over vs. climbing well. Granted theres probably alot more involved, but no one cares.

In my mind climbing has a very clear definition (go climb rocks, have fun with your friends, hang out in the woods, enjoy weird movement, push your limits, scare the shit out of yourself, and always leave with a positive attitude because what you just did is awesome). I've found that  is not what climbing means to some people though. Its the same as any sport, people are always going to take it to the next level and make it into an aggravated shit show of who can pull the hardest move. Like turning a simple game of 'Tag You're It!' into football. I mean, whatever gets your twinks hard, but i don't believe thats where the origins of climbing started. Its an ancient animalistic outlet of artistic-ness. Don't get me wrong, i'm a total psycho when im working a project. Out in the woods screaming, shaking and slaping the rock. But its not only from frustration, its because im there with my friends raising the energy to another level. Who cares if you can't go home with a video of a hard send to post on DPM. The climbing world is quickly turning from a joyful community into a biast jury. WATCH OUT!

Well, we've got the arrogant rant out of the way so here is some more bullshit.

Smoking, Drinking, General debauchery and Climbing:

Wake and bake, drink too much Busch, roll your rollies, be a total dirt bag piece of shit, work hard, drink hard and climb harder.

Dawson often asks me what the secret to climbing hard is....well, refer to the prior.
Here is a quote from one of the best competition climbers in the world, Killian Fischuber. "Women, never had. Alcohol, don't like. Friends not many. Climbing, everything." To me that is fucked. Thats not what climbing is about. These robots train their lives away 365 days of the year for what? to say they're the best. Why? Look at Dave Graham. He never touches plastic. Those who train 7 days a week couldn't touch what he does, and he's always psyched! Killian just seems like a broken man. So whats your choice? No, im not saying you should be a drunk asshole dropping trow in the woods, and shouting about stump dabs and scouring....BUT think for a minute about what climbing means to you.

Also don't be surprised if one the Rock Crickets hikes your project with a cigaret  in his mouth and down grades it with no remorse.

Be psyched! Climb whats hard to you! and keep Scouring!

-Andy

Friday, October 5, 2012

Weekly Sends - II

I know, I know, it's been more than a week.  But I'm sure no one has been on the edge of their seat waiting for the latest installment of WEEKLY SENDS.  Here it is..

Dawson's been on a roll, ticking off a number of problems.  He started off by putting away Burly Girly V3, a line that has been a long time coming for him.  After this he quickly dispatched VCrux V4, a possible, though unlikely FA that Andy got a little while ago on the boulder to the left of the Erkanan.  To wrap things up, Dawson sent Fatass V3 and in perfect "DY Style" downgraded it to V-Sub Fun.

Shane came around for the weekend and got a proud send of Rubix Cube V3, his hardest to date (just getting into climbing a month or so ago).  He's been scouring the lands to the East while at school.

Alex has been coming up regularly and was able to tick off Burly Girly and Ed and Elliot's Articulated Flower Dance V3.  The other half of the South Conn climbing contingent (Kyle) hasn't been up in a while.

Ryan had a pretty good week, starting off with the FA of Bumashtee V3 on a boulder 200 feet uphill from The Egg.  The problem is the lone line on the boulder (though it awaits a few more possible problems), starting on a left pinch and high right pocket, up to a right gaston and a big static move to a sidepull match to the top.  To Ryan it felt around the V3 range, those under six feet tall might find the crux reach move much more difficult.  He also was able to put away Trainspotting V6 after working out the beta the previous weekend.  Lastly, he got the FCA (First Cigarette Ascent) of Ed and Elliot's Articulated Flower Dance.  For those of you unfamiliar with the coveted FCA, it is when one is the first person to climbing a problem start to finish while smoking a cigarette.  Some may argue, more impressive than the first ascent itself.

Ryan on Trainspotting

Andy, as usual had a string of sends.  After taking some time to work out his own beta for Bumashtee he was able to get the second ascent.  Later that week he procured a send of the rarely climbed Deny The Force V5 on the Gravity Bomb Boulder.  On the Erkanan he got on the extended version of Trainspotting that stays low and goes out the blunt compression feature.  He felt it was harder than the regular finish but not hard enough to push it into V7 territory.  Lastly, Lund was able to send his long standing project, the extended finish to Trespassers Will Be Shot V8 at an illusive boulder in the Northwest hills of Connecticut.  Also, while tromping around in the region he may have come across at least one quality boulder in a new area.

It's been rainy, so much so that in the last week we have seen only one dry(ish) day of climbing.  Crappy weather means time for exploration however, and getting lost in the woods - no great news on the development front, though everyone's psyched for this fall at the Barracks Mt. area (and many others).  Rain is also a great excuse to get inside and climb at the Canaan Valley Bouldering Barn.  Rock Cricket celebrated its 10th Tuesday Night Bouldering with whiskey, Busch, and finger injuries (nothing major we hope).  Keep climbing and KEEP SCOURING!

-Ryan

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Weekly Sends - I

We thought we'd create a weekly post dedicated to the ranting about sends that the Rock Cricket crew have gotten around to.  For this special occasion (it being the first installment), we'll recap the last TWO weeks or so, "hold onto your butts".

*** If you can tell us who said that quote and in what movie we'll send you a Rock Cricket sticker (they're in the works)!  Email ryan@rockcricket.com ***

Let's kick it off with Andy Lundeen, carpenter and highball aficionado (none of his sends were actually highballs).  To start Lund got a quick send of the seldom visited Dog Brain SDS V8 on a boulder that people walk past all the time (we don't know why).  Additionally he ticked off two other great lines that he has spent some time on, the nearby Green Goddess V7, and the slopefest Twisted Steel V7, which he did by headlamp.

Dawson had a good couple of weeks as well.  He dispatched the long overdue Crystal Problem V3, as well as two other projects Spak Attack V4 and Stumpy V5.  On top of all this he has made a new friend named Jesus (the \hey-soos\ variety, we think), who is supposedly sending us a bunch of Lapis brushes.

Following suit, Ryan ticked off a number of problems.  He too had yet to finish the Crystal Problem, but on the same day as Dawson finally finished it up.  Similarly, he got Spak Attack shortly after Dawson.  Additionally he was able to tick off the classic Compressor Roof V5 and French Tips V6 around the corner, by headlamp.  After much finger shredding, he also stuck Squirrel Style V5.  Lastly, on a day trip to Lincoln Woods, despite many shutdowns, he was able to send the classic Peace Dove V3.

On the development front Ryan's work still continues on the Downward Spiral project, as well as a discovery of another undone line in the main area called Bumashtee.  Andy has also cleaned and done some burns on an amazing line tucked into a tricky to access cave in the main area - it awaits an ascent.  In similar news, Ryan has possibly found another area along the slopes of East Mt., miles from the Res, its quality is uncertain.  Down the road from the trail head to this location he has also found a jumble of rock that seemingly holds only one  boulder worth putting time into.  The rock quality on the block is nowhere near that of the Res but it may hold one proud highball.

The proud singular boulder at a new area in the Berkshires

Ryan has also put in a little time at the recently neglected Lovers area in Northwestern CT (uncovered by Dawson and Ryan).  There has yet to be a problem finished in this area though he managed to get to the top many times on a new line called Dagoba System. Due to the need for more top cleaning, and lack of a spotter, he was not able to send.

In other news, Alex and Kyle have been regularly coming up from Southern CT to session the Res, and we are all planning a trip down south for November.  Shane has been busy SCOURING the hills that surround UConn's campus during his last semester, apparently turning up some great untouched rock, as well as some things that have been forgotten over the years.  Hopefully we'll get to go check some of it out.

We'd like to start adding footage to these posts when we have it.  Unfortunately this one won't get any right away, but we do have a couple of these sends, and others, from the last couple of weeks that we'll get up as soon as possible.

Keep climbing.

-Ryan

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Mission Statement (Kind Of)

You may be wondering what a rock cricket is.  The last time I checked Merriam-Webster, it was defined as..

                            Rock Cricket - \'rak 'kri-ket\
                                             n. A fucked little bug that lives in the cracks, crevices, and dark places
                                                 of Reservoir Rocks and its neighboring climbing locations.

Fear or befriend them, love or hate them, embrace or poke them with a "hole stick", they embody the same sort of lifestyle we all love.  They cling to bare rock.  They spend their free time rummaging through piles of stone.  They are dirty and haggard looking.  Sound familiar?

                Exhibit A:

We here at rock cricket think any day you get on rock is a good one (unless you're bouldering in the Gunks - but we're working on that).  Luckily for us we have been provided with some of the gneissest rock around, pun intended.  Get climbing.  Real content to follow.

-Ryan