Friday, October 5, 2012

Weekly Sends - II

I know, I know, it's been more than a week.  But I'm sure no one has been on the edge of their seat waiting for the latest installment of WEEKLY SENDS.  Here it is..

Dawson's been on a roll, ticking off a number of problems.  He started off by putting away Burly Girly V3, a line that has been a long time coming for him.  After this he quickly dispatched VCrux V4, a possible, though unlikely FA that Andy got a little while ago on the boulder to the left of the Erkanan.  To wrap things up, Dawson sent Fatass V3 and in perfect "DY Style" downgraded it to V-Sub Fun.

Shane came around for the weekend and got a proud send of Rubix Cube V3, his hardest to date (just getting into climbing a month or so ago).  He's been scouring the lands to the East while at school.

Alex has been coming up regularly and was able to tick off Burly Girly and Ed and Elliot's Articulated Flower Dance V3.  The other half of the South Conn climbing contingent (Kyle) hasn't been up in a while.

Ryan had a pretty good week, starting off with the FA of Bumashtee V3 on a boulder 200 feet uphill from The Egg.  The problem is the lone line on the boulder (though it awaits a few more possible problems), starting on a left pinch and high right pocket, up to a right gaston and a big static move to a sidepull match to the top.  To Ryan it felt around the V3 range, those under six feet tall might find the crux reach move much more difficult.  He also was able to put away Trainspotting V6 after working out the beta the previous weekend.  Lastly, he got the FCA (First Cigarette Ascent) of Ed and Elliot's Articulated Flower Dance.  For those of you unfamiliar with the coveted FCA, it is when one is the first person to climbing a problem start to finish while smoking a cigarette.  Some may argue, more impressive than the first ascent itself.

Ryan on Trainspotting

Andy, as usual had a string of sends.  After taking some time to work out his own beta for Bumashtee he was able to get the second ascent.  Later that week he procured a send of the rarely climbed Deny The Force V5 on the Gravity Bomb Boulder.  On the Erkanan he got on the extended version of Trainspotting that stays low and goes out the blunt compression feature.  He felt it was harder than the regular finish but not hard enough to push it into V7 territory.  Lastly, Lund was able to send his long standing project, the extended finish to Trespassers Will Be Shot V8 at an illusive boulder in the Northwest hills of Connecticut.  Also, while tromping around in the region he may have come across at least one quality boulder in a new area.

It's been rainy, so much so that in the last week we have seen only one dry(ish) day of climbing.  Crappy weather means time for exploration however, and getting lost in the woods - no great news on the development front, though everyone's psyched for this fall at the Barracks Mt. area (and many others).  Rain is also a great excuse to get inside and climb at the Canaan Valley Bouldering Barn.  Rock Cricket celebrated its 10th Tuesday Night Bouldering with whiskey, Busch, and finger injuries (nothing major we hope).  Keep climbing and KEEP SCOURING!



  1. Rubix cube is V2, even heard V1 for tall folks. Otherwise, great job

  2. Identify yourself you downgrading son of a bitch!

  3. jeremy. friends with kyle. onsighted rubix cube back in december, followed by a series of flashes by everyone else i was with. was told by several people, especially longtimers of the great barrington area that it was v2, but commonly mistaken as v4. who knows. i just know i certainly wasnt onsighting v4s when i sent that, especially having been climbing only 3 months by that time. regardless, its a great climb

  4. grades that low are futile anywho. i respect a +1/-1 on bouldering grades until the v6 range. but even then, they can arguably be felt a grade easier/harder depending on the person's body size/strengths/weaknesses. in the end, its just rock climbing

  5. Grade's aren't futile at any level of climbing, they are a great gauge for testing oneself and using as a scale to judge what you may want to get on. HOWEVER, they are very very subjective and in many instances (but nowhere near all) relative to your physical characteristics. Haha that's as philosophical I will get on grade banter. I write the posts and use accepted grades (referenced from our group of climbers, who visit the Res on almost every sunny day, as well as many of the older locals who have put up a lot of the lines). Feel free to add your two cents on the matter of a specific grade though, I'd love to hear it.

  6. Deny the force looks harder than v5... That is my .02 cents lol


Talk shit.